Sapa sits at about 1,500 m in the far north of Vietnam, a former French hill station in the province of Lao Cai, a few dozen kilometres from the Chinese border. Above it rises the Hoang Lien Son range, and above everything else rises Fansipan, at 3,143 m the highest mountain in Vietnam and in the whole of Indochina. Below the town, the Muong Hoa valley falls away in rice terraces that have been carved into the slopes by hand over centuries. It is one of the most photographed landscapes in Southeast Asia, and one of the most rewarding places in the region for a few days of walking.
We spent five days here in late September, walking through the valley villages and then making the two-day climb of Fansipan on foot. The two halves of the trip are very different, and it is worth understanding both before you go.
Getting to Sapa
The classic approach is the overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, roughly eight hours on a line built by the French in the early 20th century, followed by a 35 km road climb to the town. A motorway completed in 2014 has cut the journey by road to about five hours, and buses now run day and night. Sapa itself has grown fast in the last decade, and the town centre is busy with construction and traffic. The walking starts as soon as you leave it.
The terraces of the Muong Hoa valley
The Muong Hoa valley runs south-east from Sapa for about 15 km, and its slopes are terraced from the riverbed almost to the ridgelines. The terraces are farmed by the Black Hmong, Red Dao, Tay and Giay communities who live in villages along the valley: Cat Cat closest to town, then Lao Chai, Ta Van, Giang Ta Chai and Ban Ho further down. A single rice crop is grown each year because of the altitude, and the calendar shapes what you see. From May to early June the terraces are flooded and mirror the sky. Through July and August they are a dense green. From mid-September to early October the rice turns gold and is harvested, which is the most popular time to visit, and the reason we chose it.
Walking between the villages is easy in terms of distance, typically 10 to 15 km a day, but the paths are steep, muddy after rain and often shared with water buffalo. Most people walk with a local guide from one of the villages, which is both a courtesy and a practical help: the trail network is informal and the guides know which paths are passable. Homestays in Ta Van and Ban Ho offer a bed, dinner and breakfast with the family. The Red Dao villages of Ta Phin, to the north of town, are known for herbal baths and are reached by a separate day walk.
A few points of respect matter here. Ask before photographing people. Buy handicrafts if you want them, but do not feel obliged, and be aware that children selling goods on the trail are often kept out of school to do so. Stay on the paths; a footprint in a planted terrace is a real loss to a family.
Fansipan on foot
Fansipan was first surveyed by the French in the early 20th century, and until 2016 the only way up was to walk. That year a cable car opened from near Sapa to a station just below the summit, covering 6,292 m in about 15 minutes and holding the record for the longest three-rope cable car in the world. The summit area now has a stairway, temples and a large statue, and it receives thousands of visitors a day. None of this changes the mountain itself, which remains a serious two-day trek through some of the wildest forest in northern Vietnam.
The usual trailhead is the Tram Ton pass, at about 1,900 m on the road north-west of Sapa, the highest road pass in the country. From there the trail climbs roughly 11 km and 1,250 m to the summit, passing through bamboo, rhododendron and dwarf forest before emerging on the bare ridge. Most parties camp or use a basic shelter at around 2,800 m on the first night and reach the summit early on the second day. The path is rough, with sections of steep mud, exposed roots and ladders, and it is slippery in the wet, which is most of the time. A guide and porters are required by the national park authorities and are arranged locally. Descending on foot takes most of the second day; some hikers now walk up and ride the cable car down.
Seasons and weather
Sapa has a mountain climate that surprises visitors who expect tropical heat. Winters, from December to February, are cold and wet, with temperatures often near freezing and occasional snow on Fansipan and even in town. Spring, from March to May, is mild and relatively dry, and is a good season for the climb. Summer, from June to August, is the wettest period, with monsoon rain and reduced visibility; the terraces are at their greenest, but Fansipan is rarely clear. Autumn, from September to November, is the best compromise, with the harvest in the valley, cooler air and improving views. Fog can close in at any season, and the summit is in cloud more often than not.
Practical matters
The Hoang Lien National Park charges an entrance fee for the Fansipan trail, and foreign visitors are required to climb with a licensed guide. Village walking in the Muong Hoa valley needs no permit. Altitude is a minor concern on Fansipan compared with the Himalaya, but the climb from Sapa to the summit in two days is fast enough that some walkers feel it. Leeches are common in the forest in the wet season, and long trousers tucked into socks are worth the discomfort.
Sapa is a place of contrasts, and it is honest to say so. The town is over-built, the summit of Fansipan is a tourist attraction, and the villages closest to town can feel like a market. But walk an hour further down the valley, or spend a night in the forest on the way up the mountain, and the reasons people have come here for a century are still there: the terraces, the light, the hill communities and the largest mountain in the region rising out of the cloud.